HOW TO FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIE?
HOW TO FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIE?
(1) those accustomed afford mechanical protection to the plants;
(2) those wont to apply insecticides and fungicides.
HOW TO FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIES? Of the primary, the foremost useful is that the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to 2 feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting, or mosquito wire. the primary two coverings have, of course, the extra advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant previous is otherwise safe.
They're used extensively in getting an additional early and safe start with cucumbers, melons, and also the other vine vegetables. Simpler devices for shielding newly-set plants, like tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard, or roofing paper collars, which are made several inches high and enormous enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an in. roughly into the soil.
For applying poison powders, the house gardener should supply himself with a powder gun. If one must be restricted to one implementation, however, it'll be best to induce one among the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays and will be furnished with one in every one of the several kinds of mist-making nozzles, the non-bloggable automatic type being the most effective.
For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, is going to be desirable, but one in every of the above will do a good deal of labor in little time. Extension rods to be used in spraying trees and vines are also obtained for either.
For operations on a really small scale, an honest hand-syringe could also be used, but as a general thing, it'll be best to take a position some dollars more and acquire a tiny low tank sprayer, as this throws a continual stream or spray and holds a far larger amount of the spraying solution.
Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine it'll out-wear three or four of these manufactured from cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals employed in them.
Of implements for harvesting, besides the spade, prong-hoe, and spading- fork, only a few are utilized in the little garden, as most of them needn't only long rows to be economically used, but horsepower also.
The onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe could also be used with the advantage of loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out.
For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the tip of an extended handle, is of great assistance, but with the fashionable method of using low-headed trees, it'll not be needed.
Another class of garden implements is those utilized in pruning but where this is often attended to properly from the beginning, an honest sharp jack-knife and a pair of shear will easily handle all the work of the type necessary.
Still another form of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; like stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether insufficient attention usually is given these, like proper care in storing over winter they'll not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and also the neat appearance of the garden.
As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I'd say: first thoroughly investigate the various sorts available, and when buying, don't forget that a decent tool or a well-made machine are going to be providing you with satisfactory use long, long after the worth is forgotten, while a poor one could be a constant source of discomfort.
Get good tools, and take excellent care of them. And let me repeat that some dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon provide you with a complete set, and increase your garden profit and pleasure.
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